Also the damage along the edge has pulled the top down. Just showing the repairs I did 5 years ago. I first roughed it out over a piece of conveyor belt so not to stretch it further. Just using a rounded brickies bolster.
The split area is already looking much better. I used a door skinning hammer to further improve this area. The angled head allowed me to hit still with a full swing.
I also did some fine work over the edge of the railroad track. As well as my home made T stake.
Nice and straight again along this edge where the split is. Top has come up well too and no grinding or sanding has been done yet, just wire wheeled. The split will be welded up and it is done.
When I thought of using the old HEMI covers to cover the coils in 2015, I had never seen anyone do it before, so had no idea if it could be done. Try as I may I could not find any dimensions of the valve covers to see if possible or not. So I'm putting up mine now in case there is ever anyone else looking to use these covers for something in the future. They are 522mm-20.55" long outside of the flanges. 235mm-9.25" wide on the outside. Flanges are 13mm-1/2" wide each side.
To see if they would fit I made up a profile piece from some scrap stainless steel. They fit best when positioned like this along the bottom and can go over the protruding studs.
At the top I hope to use the bolts that hold the fuel rail in place. Can see how they will cover the coil packs, harness and the injectors as well just nicely.
I had to do some trimming at the back corner of the cover as the steering column boot was in the way. LHD's would have it easier, as not only is the head further away on the other side from the firewall, but the 25mm-1" factory engine offset gives more room as well! The centre stud has plenty of room to fit a nut but the other two are too tight if left like this. Some simple tags welded to the cover flange to sit under the fuel rail bolts should solve the fixing at the top.
With the engine offset to this side it is too tight under the one of the tower brace legs. One of the air-conditioning pipes next to the brake booster clears, but not by enough to leave as is. I think it looks really good though and even better once toned down with some original black wrinkle paint these had.
I started making clearance between the cover and the tower brace. Using a large heavy bumping hammer, like a oversized fender hammer, to invert the ridge downwards. This hammer is also referred to as a 'Donkey's Dick", for obvious reasons. I'm using a small beater bag hooked over a T stake. Refining was done with the Fairmount wide dome dressing hammer.
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