Using a grinding disc with some pressure to get some heat into the weld to anneal it some, helps prevent cracking I have found. Take it down to razor blade thickness inside and out. Then hammer on dolly to stretch the weld back to flat. Then sand to flush before hitting it with a strip disc. This side had pitting and some small spots rusted through. This section bolts under the cowl. If the windscreen leaks at all it ends up caught inside the bottom of the cowl until one day it rusts all the way through and onto this area. No drain hole from the factory so I made sure it has one now when I remade the bottom of the cowl.


Rather than make a lot of little repairs I just replaced the whole section. Folded it first and then stretched the flange to get it to curve. Some more shaping over the anvil and stake dollies to get it to sit flat. Traced the factory mounting holes and cut them out exactly the same. They look strangely aligned but they point along the centreline of the cab.


Put the other guard in place to check the look of the changed front curve making it the 40mm-1.5" longer. Think it works well and the first time in 7 years since the guard was last in place! This angle makes the guard look longer than it really is, but fits in with the longer cab.



Won't go into much detail on this side stretching the guard length as it just the same as the other side. I did form the centre rib differently using this combination of dies. Also will extend the cut out over further past the rib using the whole patch as much easier to planish the weld. Also notice the fatigue crack at the tip where it had thinned from rust over time.


I have shrunk the edge before tipping the flange in the bead roller so it keeps the contour. Will finish the tipping just using a rounded cold chisel as a stake.