Another piece of the puzzle done and only the other back corner left to do on the skin. Lots more refining of course and you can see the first side is already looking better. If the low spots were loose, i.e. you could lift them with a finger, I use the 5" shrinking disc from underneath to lift them. Tight ones I would use off dolly and lift a low spot next to them at the same time. Sometimes hammering them down into the rubber dolly worked well. A flipper and a dolly pushing up under low spots was needed in some situations. Whatever worked. Bonnet skin is complete! Laid it next to my spare stock one to give you an idea of proportions and size change. I kept the best bonnet to start with in case I needed pieces from it if I failed in making the skin. Might sell the original one now or think it would make a good awning over my garage side door too!


I cleaned the metal surface with a finer strip disc so I could better check the surface for imperfections. This is about as far as I can go until the supports go in to hold its final shape. I don't have any 'loose' areas as is as tighten them up with the shrinking disc even if the shape was already correct.


Time to start on the rear bonnet support. I got the two originals I made the bonnet skin from to use. I was very surprised to find how many spot welds went through the outer exposed skin. One had 26 in all! Normally on cars this is never done, especially on large panel such as this, as it shows up through the paint work as the skin expands and contracts with temperature. It will pull on the welds even if it was not visible as time of paint preparation. I will use an adhesive/sealer and spots welds only on the flange at the ends which I will add to these. It will also be held down by the clamping of the hinge screws. I came up with a way to easily make level mounts for the hinges. There was a 4mm difference from one side to the other so made new threaded plates out of some 4mm plate. It is welded in flush on one side and sits up the plate thickness on the other so it stays level under the hinge while the support curves downwards.


Can really see how much wider the cowl and how different the curvature is. The rise is the same but over a longer distance so it is shallower overall. I will have to alter the support completely from one end to the other to match it. I will hammer right long the bottom edge only, as pictured, to stretch it which will reduce the curvature. With the profile now matching the cowl between the outer bends it is time to measure where to cut and then fit the ends from the other bonnet support to lengthen it.


I have only tacked one side of the join so I can make final adjustment once it is bolted to the hinges and matches the cowl. I think it would have been better if I had made the support first and then made the skin match it. I have some excess material left and what is shown is about half of what I started with before using the shrinking disk to reduce it.