I have always wanted to run the original donor wiper motor to keep it plug and play with the factory harness, but couldn't come up with a way to run it. So went with the cable system instead. Now that I have started on the cabin wiring, I ran into a problem that the donor wiring and motor has 4 wires and the cable motor 5. The cable motor runs three brushes with a different pair for the 2 speeds. The donor, according to the diagnostics section, runs at 5 volts for low and 10 volts for high. It is all controlled by a computer as well and there is more monitoring of its position other than just park. They work the same way drive wise with a worm on the motor shaft driving a gear wheel, but are a mirror image. No easy way to swap one with the other in this configuration.
Stripped the cable system down to nut out way to adapt to the donor motor. The electronics in the donor is part of the gearbox, so no way just to try and swap the motors over. Then I thought why not drive the shaft of the cable system directly from the donor gearbox output shaft. Just got to figure an easy way to do it as the cable shaft sits flush on the outside of the cable housing.
Popped it into the lathe and drilled and taped the end of the shaft to the same thread of the donor shaft. I could just just thread it on. I also cut the original nut down to make a half nut to lock it in place. The half nut also allowed me to fine tune the park position between the motor and the cable drive. I cut away everything I didn't need from the cable motor mount to give me room under the dash.
I made a whole new mount for it and had the benefit of now it not pressing on the air duct and transferring the noise through it. The duct now can go under it and the motor is above the glovebox. It sits on 4 rubber isolators instead of the three it had as these rubbers are much softer than the factory ones. I had trouble bending the 3/8" steel copper coated tubing and needed a smooth outer radius as big as possible to ease cable strain. My flanging tool needs the end to be straight so had to add the bend right to the end afterwards. Put a bolt in the end of the pipe so I could do this.